This post was written by Shannon McKinney, Chef & owner of McKinney & Doyle in Pawling, New York.
If you are as lucky in life as I have been, you are surrounded by people that support you, care for, and love you. My wife, children and the staff at McKinney and Doyle are my rocks and the ones that really keep me happy and 
moving forward.
There is a man, however, that changed my life and set me on a career path that led to the opening of McKinney and Doyle 30 years ago. I was recently reunited with him after a 25 year lapse and I want to share the story with everyone.
The man I speak of is Chef Albert Kumin. When I was a student at the Culinary Institute of America back in the early 80’s, Kumin was legendary as a past chef/instructor there. His credits are many but among them are things like the legendary Four Seasons Restaurant in NYC, creating desserts for Windows on The World and serving over 2700 guests per night, Pastry Chef at The White House under the Carter Administration and developing the dessert program at Disney’s Epcot Center. He then went on to found The International Pastry Arts Center, which was a teaching division of Country Epicure in Bedford NY. Aspiring chefs came from all over the country to spend a week with “Chef”.
I decided that pastry was going to be my career upon graduation and I wanted to somehow, be close to this man and learn from the master. I took a job in Country Epicures Bakery Division in hopes that if I worked really hard, he might notice me and somehow want me on his team. My dream came true after a year in the bakery kitchen and Chef Albert asked me to become his new assistant at the school.
I learned recipes, ratios, technique and how to do things with sugar and chocolate that defied what any baker might ever imagine. We made flowers and woven baskets out of screaming hot molten sugar, (I still don’t think I have ever grown back my fingerprints) We shot tempered Belgian Chocolate onto handmade chocolate sculptures through an old air compressor that Albert had found at a tag sale and we built an 8 foot high tiered cake for the NY premier of the of the movie Amadeus.
All these things were truly amazing but what I really learned from this man was much more important. He was, and still is one of the most humble, kind, caring and nurturing individuals I have ever known. Whether you were the night porter at the bakery or a visiting chef from Europe, you were greeted with genuine kindness and respect. During our time together we spent hours talking, telling stories and even going back to his house after work to build field stone walls in his yard. I truly treasured every minute.
When I decided to move on and try my luck at my own bakery, I was nervous about telling him. I thought he might be angry that I was leaving or warn me about the risk I was about to take. Instead, he simply asked me what I needed him to do to help. I said he had done enough already but that didn’t stop him from coming up at night to help us hammer up walls, rebuild old ovens and equipment, paint and haul construction debris to the dump and anything else that needed doing. On our opening day, Albert walked in with a beautiful, handmade pulled sugar basket filled with sugar flowers that looked like they were just picked from someone’s garden.
Years went by and I lost touch with the man who had taught me so much. He retired and moved to Vermont with his family. (His retirement consisted of helping his daughter open a successful company called Green Mountain Chocolates and he continued to teach). I felt so guilty for letting the years slip by and not finding the time to reach out to him.
I recently learned that Albert was being honored by The Culinary Institute of America as “A Legend of New York Dining” along with 3 other New York legends. I was talking with my family about how much I wanted to go and the next thing I knew, my son had purchased a ticket for me. The event was held at The Museum of Natural History in NY and I would finally get a chance to see him. With over 700 guests and dignitaries in attendance, I knew that my chances of getting to say hello were slim at best. A friend and editor of the CIA’s magazine saw me at the reception and knew I was there to see Albert. She offered to take me to him. I had a knot in my stomach. At 95 years of age, would he remember me? Would he be mad that I hadn’t kept in touch? I reached out my hand and was about tell him my name when he took one look at me and cried out “SHANNON!!” He didn’t let go of my hand for the next 5 minutes as we talked and he asked me about every member of my family by name. What an incredible man. I felt guilty about the line of people waiting to talk to him so I told him I would come back before the night was over. Once the ceremony and dinner began, I knew I would not get close to him again so I found him just before he was to be escorted down to the main event. Again he never let go of my hand and thanked me over and over again for coming. I said “Chef-you’re thanking me? I feel so bad about not calling you over so many years” He hugged me and whispered in my ear “Shannon, I am so proud of you”.
I cried for the next ten minutes in a remote corner of the museum.
Rebecca McKinney
I wanted to create this blog for a few reasons. First and foremost, to share tips, tricks, and knowledge about the food and beverage industry in general but also to help people see a different side of the restaurant world. Every restaurant has a totally unique culture and world within it. I want to help open people’s eyes to more than how fast the service is or how easy or hard it is to secure a reservation.
So, thanks for stopping by! I welcome your ideas, input, and feedback and hope you enjoy!
Eat well & travel often,
Becky McKinney
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